Description
Dries fast. Very easy to walk around to the top and access the anchors to set up top ropes. But bring a rope protector as some of the anchors are placed back from the cliff edge.
Access Issues
Very sensitive access situation. Part of the crag located very close to houses. If possible, avoid the routes closest to the houses. Keep a very low profile. Climbing has been limited. Parking is a huge problem in this area. The approach should be far, at least 10 minutes walking. Park at Lexbyskolan or Lexby Station.
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Hylteberget is a very sensitive area in regards to access. Conduct yourself in a pleasant manner to residents. Keep a low profile, and don’t shout profanities or similar whilst in and around the crag.
We recommend that there should not be more than 5 rope-teams at any time on the crag on the sector Hylteberget (by the private parking). Do not climb the routes left of Särimer as the risk of falling debris hitting cars is high. Belayers should take care to ensure they are not in the way of cars wanting to park.
If you need to relieve yourself, walk far in to the woods. Dig and cover.
Parking is a huge problem in this area. The approach should be far, at least 10 minutes walking. Park at Lexbyskolan or Lexby Station. During weekends and after 6 pm weekdays there is parking available at Lillegårdsskolan. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE park in the residential area around the crag. If you are climbing the sectors Övre Övre Hylteberget and Paradiset we recommend Suketjärn Parkering. Follow the green and white markings which go to the right up the steep hill. This path will take you directly to the start of Sfinxen in about 10 minutes.
No more bolting in this area. Do not retrobolt established routes.
Approach
This crag is above Rulltrappan.
From the carpark (do NOT park here) at end of Klockar Johans väg (57.746661, 12.110846), take the red path to the right, snaking around the bottom of Hylteberget. The path will go first away from the cliff and then cut back. From there continue for 200m (staying left at the fork) then turn L off the path onto a small footpad (just before the 10m mossy slab), scramble up over the ridge, contouring to your right for 100m to the (climber's) right side of the crag (57.74741, 12.11080).
Alternatively, En Trappa Upp can be approached from Övre Östra Hylteberget by taking the footpad that starts by the stony ground just South of Bee Bop and runs parallel to the cliff line.
