Description
The Rock is particularly crumbly and includes a few loose stones. So always wear a helmet and take care when you walk between these sectors.
Access Issues
Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.
Approach
Abseil in: Drive past Mellieħa Bay and towards Ċirkewwa and take the left exit onto the road which leads to the Red Tower. Follow that road until the very end where you will find a Radar Station. You can park here (35°58'18.3"N 14°19'28.9"E). Walk 200m directly westwards (jumping over fissures in the ground), to find an abseil point directly on top of the West Wall. There is a short via ferrata in a fissure by the abseil point if you prefer.
Walk In: (20min approach): Drive past Mellieħa Bay heading north and at the round-about take the 1st exit (straight ahead direction Ċirkewwa). After 130m take the 2nd exit to the left. After about 1.7km you get to the end of the road where there are a few spaces to park. Park here (35° 58'34.5"N 14°19'34.9"E). This is the same parking area you would use to go climbing at Latnija Cave (aka Mellieħa Cave). Walk south up a track and after about 80m turn right through a gap in the cliff line and follow the path. You’ll soon go past a natural water spring with a reservoir. Keep following the path for about 600m keeping the cliffs on your left (about 100m away), and the sea on your right. As you come to a large eucalyptus tree about 10m to the left of the path follow the path that leads up to it and then beyond, following the path all the way up to the crag. Look out for cairns marking the way.
Ethic
Don't bolt here. There is a well established climbing community. If you seek to add routes contact either Climb MT (UIAA affiliated) or the Malta Rock Climbing Club in Malta, or Stevie Haston in Gozo. All new routes are now being equipped with titanium bolts and anchors.
