Access Issues
Very sensitive access situation. Part of the crag located very close to houses. If possible, avoid the routes closest to the houses. Keep a very low profile. Climbing has been limited. Parking is a huge problem in this area. The approach should be far, at least 10 minutes walking. Park at Lexbyskolan or Lexby Station.
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http://access.bergsport.se/hylteberget/
Hylteberget is a very sensitive area in regards to access. Conduct yourself in a pleasant manner to residents. Keep a low profile, and don’t shout profanities or similar whilst in and around the crag.
We recommend that there should not be more than 5 rope-teams at any time on the crag on the sector Hylteberget (by the private parking). Do not climb the routes left of Särimer as the risk of falling debris hitting cars is high. Belayers should take care to ensure they are not in the way of cars wanting to park.
If you need to relieve yourself, walk far in to the woods. Dig and cover.
Parking is a huge problem in this area. The approach should be far, at least 10 minutes walking. Park at Lexbyskolan or Lexby Station. During weekends and after 6 pm weekdays there is parking available at Lillegårdsskolan. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE park in the residential area around the crag. If you are climbing the sectors Övre Övre Hylteberget and Paradiset we recommend Suketjärn Parkering. Follow the green and white markings which go to the right up the steep hill. This path will take you directly to the start of Sfinxen in about 10 minutes.
No more bolting in this area. Do not retrobolt established routes.
Approach
The crag is above Plockepinn.
From the carpark (do NOT park here) at end of Klockar Johans väg (57.746661, 12.110846), there are two options:
- The best approach is to first go to En Trappa Upp: Take the red path right from the carpark, 200m after the switchback which heads back towards the cliffs, and right before some 10m mossy slabs, turn off the path onto a small footpad up on to the right, then contour around to En Trappa Upp. Then follow the track NW out of En Trappa Upp for 100m to arrive at Över Östra Hylteberget.
- Alternatively (via Östra Hylteberget) take the track L around the cliff line from the carpark. Follow this for a couple hundred metres. Immediately after you pass Plockepinn, turn R off the path up the ramp behind Plockepinn. Follow the ramp (with a little bit of light scrambling) up and over Övre Östra Hylteberget, before scrambling down back into the forest. From there, the crag will be 50m round the corner on your right.
Crag's GPS coordinates: (57.747973, 12.109625)
