Access Issues
Very sensitive access situation. Part of the crag located very close to houses. If possible, avoid the routes closest to the houses. Keep a very low profile. Climbing has been limited. Parking is a huge problem in this area. The approach should be far, at least 10 minutes walking. Park at Lexbyskolan or Lexby Station.
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Hylteberget is a very sensitive area in regards to access. Conduct yourself in a pleasant manner to residents. Keep a low profile, and don’t shout profanities or similar whilst in and around the crag.
We recommend that there should not be more than 5 rope-teams at any time on the crag on the sector Hylteberget (by the private parking). Do not climb the routes left of Särimer as the risk of falling debris hitting cars is high. Belayers should take care to ensure they are not in the way of cars wanting to park.
If you need to relieve yourself, walk far in to the woods. Dig and cover.
Parking is a huge problem in this area. The approach should be far, at least 10 minutes walking. Park at Lexbyskolan or Lexby Station. During weekends and after 6 pm weekdays there is parking available at Lillegårdsskolan. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE park in the residential area around the crag. If you are climbing the sectors Övre Övre Hylteberget and Paradiset we recommend Suketjärn Parkering. Follow the green and white markings which go to the right up the steep hill. This path will take you directly to the start of Sfinxen in about 10 minutes.
No more bolting in this area. Do not retrobolt established routes.
Approach
From the carpark (do NOT park here) at end of Klockar Johans väg (57.746661, 12.110846), follow the track (yellow-white, green-white and blue markings) passed the turn offs to Plockepinn and Övre Hyltebergen on your right. Soon after, there is a small clearing with some cut logs, where the path forks. Take the right fork there, then another right fork after 1-2min. After another 1-2min, take the right turn heading uphill towards some low cliffs. Follow this path up and then to the right snaking around the base of the cliffs to the crag (57.74860, 12.10796).
Note that the waypoint in Open Street Maps is incorrect (despite its label, it is for Övre Hyltebergen), as are the GPS coordinates in the guidebook.
