Access Issues
Very sensitive access situation. Part of the crag located very close to houses. If possible, avoid the routes closest to the houses. Keep a very low profile. Climbing has been limited. Parking is a huge problem in this area. The approach should be far, at least 10 minutes walking. Park at Lexbyskolan or Lexby Station.
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Hylteberget is a very sensitive area in regards to access. Conduct yourself in a pleasant manner to residents. Keep a low profile, and don’t shout profanities or similar whilst in and around the crag.
We recommend that there should not be more than 5 rope-teams at any time on the crag on the sector Hylteberget (by the private parking). Do not climb the routes left of Särimer as the risk of falling debris hitting cars is high. Belayers should take care to ensure they are not in the way of cars wanting to park.
If you need to relieve yourself, walk far in to the woods. Dig and cover.
Parking is a huge problem in this area. The approach should be far, at least 10 minutes walking. Park at Lexbyskolan or Lexby Station. During weekends and after 6 pm weekdays there is parking available at Lillegårdsskolan. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE park in the residential area around the crag. If you are climbing the sectors Övre Övre Hylteberget and Paradiset we recommend Suketjärn Parkering. Follow the green and white markings which go to the right up the steep hill. This path will take you directly to the start of Sfinxen in about 10 minutes.
No more bolting in this area. Do not retrobolt established routes.
Approach
From the carpark (do NOT park here) at end of Klockar Johans väg (57.746661, 12.110846), follow the track past Forex. Look for the bolted slab amongst the moss -- this is Kyrktrappan. For the rest of the crag, follow the cliff line up 20m to the corner.
