Description
The Miroir d'Argentine is the premier climbing site in the canton of Vaud, Switzerland — a roughly 450m northwest-facing limestone cliff famous for its dramatically folded slabs (Urgonian limestone, for anyone geologically inclined). The Miroir d'Argentine is not a standalone summit, but rather a giant 400-meter-high slab stretching between the Cheval Blanc on the west and the Haute Corde (2,325 m) on the east.
Local guides have been climbing here since the early 1900s, but the massif was largely developed by the Remy brothers, who opened around 40 routes across the wider area (only about a dozen of these are on "the Miroir" proper). Grades range from modest to genuinely hard, and the climbing style varies: the lower pitches on the base tend to follow chimneys, corners, and cracks, while the upper Miroir opens up into huge, fissured, bumpy slabs.
It's a classic multipitch destination with a big variety in route and pitch difficulty. All routes are bolted, with belays often 2 or three single bolts. However, bolts can feel spaced generously and 10m runouts aren't unusual, especially on easier terrain. A small rack of cams or nuts is useful. The wall's orientation and scale give it a cool & committing vibe. Best carry an extra layer, and only attempt it in stable weather. Expect serious rockfall in rain, thunderstorms or during freeze-thaw cycles.
There's a parking and camping area at Solalex, with a toilet block and drinking water available. Camping currently costs CHF 7 per night, payable through the usual parking apps. Cell reception is weak — just one or two bars.
Approach
From the camping area, walk approximately 100 m downstream (southwest) to a pedestrian bridge. After crossing, take a sharp left (due east). Alternatively, when the creek bed is dry, you can skip the bridge and cross directly near the camping area to join the trail.
Continue toward Plan aux Agneaux, a pasture, and cross it. At roughly your 1 o'clock, you'll see a marker pole at the edge of the pasture — this is where the climbers' trail begins. The trail itself is very well marked throughout with small red fabric flags and marker poles.
After about 45 - 60 minutes and 430 m of elevation gain, you'll reach the base of the wall. Head left along the base to find a metal plaque marking the start of the Y climb as your reference point. Nearby, a rock flake with "Inferno" (the name of a climbing route) painted on it lies on the ground — a stark reminder that it fell from the wall, and that the entire face is subject to rockfall.
Descent Notes
Follow the ridge east toward the Haute Corde. At the col between the Haute Corde and the ridgeline, a rappel station allows a 10 m rap down into the col — though downclimbing here is also quite easy. From the col, follow the faint track along the south side of the Arête de l'Argentine, marked with occasional inox bolts, until you reach a ravine on your left which is marked with cairns. Follow this track up to the summit cross of the Haute Corde.
From the summit (do not go down again the ravine you just came up), walk off via the trail heading east (climbers' right) until you come to a junction. Two trails lead back down to Solalex: a) a more direct route (climbers left) via La Poreyrette, which is a steep descent over scree, or b) a route via Anzeinde (climbers right), following a hiking trail and later a forest service road — about 30 minutes longer, but the easier and safer option.
Instead of scrambling up the ravine, you can reach the summit of the Haute Corde from the col by climbing two extra pitches (6a, 4b).
Ethic
Always ask the local climbers before rebolting or modifying a local route.
A lot of stuff has been bolted by the Remy brothers, you'll find their contact in the local topo guide.
History
The first ascent of the Grand Miroir happened almost by accident, on 28 May 1922, when three Lausanne students — André Bugnion, Jean-Pierre Vittoz, and Henri Moreillon — climbed the 450 m face using ice axes, a hemp rope, and nailed boots, following a couloir and fault line on the left side of the wall. They kept it quiet. Months later, Fernand Laurent and Jean Mabillard descended roughly the same line and narrowly avoided being swept off by rockfall.
The Y-shaped classic line up the Grand Miroir was established in 1926 by local guide Armand Moreillon together with clients F. Delisle and Charles Rathgeb, climbing without pitons. In 1930, guide Adrien Veillon made the first ascent of the Petit Miroir with English client Bobby Hudson, via a long chimney. Neither ascent was publicized at the time — possibly because guides preferred not to advertise the bolder, riskier routes to their clientele.
