Description
Šljeme Peak is a group of peaks particularly significant for alpine/rock climbing reasons, because these peaks have a prominent north rock face. The group of Šljeme Peak towards the north forms a long rocky barrier going down to the valley of Velika Karlica and Mala Karlica. The highest point is Zapadni vrh (the West Peak) with an elevation of 2477 masl. The approach to the crags is from Velika Karlica, which can be reached along the marked trail starting from Black Lake, which turns leftwards by the restaurant. The north rock face - east section continues to the rock face of Savin Kuk Peak. The crag has the height of about 300 m. From right to left it is intersected with the diagonal cracks. Two obvious vertical gullies run along the centre of the rock face. The base of the crag is covered by large screes, the sign that the rock is loose. The north rock face - central section is the highest part of the north rock face of Šljeme Peak, which dominates the whole valley of Velika Karlica, with the height of about 400m, and width of about 1800 m. The rock is characterized by vertical lines, as well as the three obvious chimneys or gullies. The upper half of the rock is very exposed. There are some twenty ascended routes. The best known routes are Direktni(The Direct Route), 400 m, VI, and Bebijev(Bebi's Route),300 m, IV,V, but nobody has entered there for many years, mostly due to the poor quality of rock. The north rock face - west section is the extension of the central rock over the diagonal crack streatching from right to left. The rock ends in the obvious karst sinkhole which divides the north rock face from the east rock face of Pleća. Along the karst sinkhole runs one of the classics of winter climbing in Mt Durmitor - Žljeb Šljeme Pleća Route, 300 m, 70 degrees, M2-3. The east rock face of Pleća and Zapadni vrh (the West Peak) has the rock face with the height of about 300m. It is vertical and cut with the wider gullies. The approach to the crag is from the alpine bivouac-30 minutes.
Osojne grede Šljemena, which are situated above the ski trail of Savin Kuk Peak, has become interesting in recent years for climbing in the winter months because of a quick approach, short and attractive climbing. The most prominent routes are Pantin Žljeb(Panta's Gully) 100m, 60 degrees, Načelnički(The Chief's Route), 80 m, 70 degrees, Direktor(The Director), 200m, M2-3, 60 degrees. All of these start just above the trail and end on the bare face of Šljeme.
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