Description
One of the most beautiful mountains in Crete, south of Iraklio, with great climbing interest. The north face has 4 routes and the south 4 where two of them are multi pitch. You wont find many bolts here, just a few in belays. In the summer of 1999 two Austrian climbers climbed for the first time a long and difficult route.
Approach
(🅿️,34.964112,25.069218)
Access is from Kapetaniana or Sternes. You need to an offroad vehicle as the last 3-4km of the road are really bad. There is a small church located in the base of the mountain. You can park or camp there.
You can also hike to the summit and abseil down for 50m. For the multi pitch routes (Zizibe and Pilgerpfad) you will need to follow the path to Monastery of Koudouma for around 30 minutes and then take direction north until you reach the starting point of the routes as described in the next pages. Be aware that you will need around one hour and a half hour.
Ethic
**General**
1. Don’t leave any rubbish behind.
2. Keep the noise down and enjoy the natural surroundings.
3. Don’t write the route name on the rock unless you are the original route-setter or first ascensionist.
4. Avoid using chalk.
5. Don’t use fixed gear for top-roping. Use your own carabiners or quickdraws until the last person is descending.
**Bolting**
1. Before setting new routes get in contact with the [Cretan Climbing Community](https://www.facebook.com/cretan.climbing.community).
2. Only use material (titanium) that is suitable to be used near the sea.
3. Respect local heritage and historical sites.
