Unique Features And Strengths
Massive wall with old alpine classics and a few hard, modern climbs through the steep slabs in the upper half.
Description
The wall is separated vertically by the fantastic "Nürnberger Kamin", which also presents the first pitch of the old aid climb "Leo Maduschka Gedenkweg" with its pendulum swing at the end. There's also a clear-cut horizontal break in the wall, separating the brittle, chossy lower half from the compact, smooth slabs at the top. Along this break runs "Auckenthaler Gedenkweg" after starting up in the chimney, then finishing through the dihedral around the corner. The recent additions are worthwhile, hard wall climbs on crimps and slopers.
Access Issues
This crag is usually closed from January 1 until July 31. An active closure is indicated by a warning and 'closed' tag here on the site; when in doubt, signs put up at the crag have precedence!
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Dieser Fels ist üblicherweise von 1. Januar bis 31. Juli gesperrt. Eine aktive Sperrung wird auf dieser Seite durch eine Warnung und ein 'gesperrt'-Tag markiert; im Zweifelsfall haben die örtlich aufgehängten Schilder Vorrang!
This crag is usually closed from January 1 until July 31. An active closure is indicated by a warning and 'closed' tag here on the site; when in doubt, signs put up at the crag have precedence! Approach
Park at the hiker's parking lot in Veilbronn. walk back to the street running through the Leinleiter valley and turn right (towards Heiligenstadt) until you find a forest road on your left. Follow this road upwards for 200 meters; here, another faint forest road crosses. Turn slightly right and you can already see the crag up ahead. There is no footpath from here, just walk up to the base.
(mount fuji, 49.8412642, 11.1919382)
(🅿️, 49.8402200, 11.1967434)
Ethic
- The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
- Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
- Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
- Don't leave toilet paper.
- Pick up rubbish.
- No unnecessary noise.
- No camp fire and bivvy.
- Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
- Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
- [No publishing of boulder blocks.](http://felsinfo.alpenverein.de/images/felsfotos/22/boulderappell_nfj.pdf)
History
The aid route at the eponymous crag is named after Leo Maduschka, a German mountaineer, author and philologist who died in 1932 in the Dolomites while climbing in the north face of Civetta.