Description
When the climbers first arrived at the Coven, the candles and grafitti made them wonder what sort of ceremonies were conducted here. Probably just a Zionist clan… anyway, this crag hosts a few amazing technical climbs. This crag used to be one of the busiest around but these days it‟s quiet, break the trend and go tick the classics; 'Lucifer Goes to the Gunks', 'Screaming Demons' and 'Shout at the Devil' and plenty of others.
Approach
A. Drive up the hill from Roc and Rope. 300 metres past the hospital there is a gravel road on the left leading down the ACRA Retreat Bed and Breakfast. Park INSIDE the ACRA retreat – just ring the bell and the owners will welcome you. Be sure to have a beer on the deck afterwards, its stunning.. From the house. walk down the hill a little then diagonally down left along the cliff top. Cross over a small stream before finding an obvious gulley marked by a cairn. Scramble down here and follow a trail keeping left and along the base of the crag.
B. Approach as for 'Flying is Fun'. Then walk down a trail at the base of the route 'Midnight Mission', turn left and over a huge flat rock. Pass through the stream and up the other side.